🔧 Pinecil + Multimeter Learning Guide
⏱️ 45 minutes total
Exercise 1: Test a Battery
- Turn dial to DC V (voltage)
- Select 20V range if manual ranging
- Touch red probe to + end of AA battery
- Touch black probe to - end
- Should read ~1.5V (1.3-1.6V is normal)
You can measure voltage
Exercise 2: Test Continuity
- Turn dial to continuity mode (looks like sound waves or diode symbol)
- Touch probes together → should beep
- Find any wire or metal object
- Touch both ends with probes → beep means connected
- Touch two unconnected points → no beep
You can check if circuits are connected
Exercise 3: Measure Resistance
- Turn dial to Ω (ohms)
- Grab a resistor from your kit (try the 1K ohm)
- Touch probes to each leg of the resistor
- Should read ~1000 (or 1.0 if display shows kΩ)
You can measure component values
Exercise 4: Test a Diode
- Turn dial to diode mode (arrow with line)
- Touch red to one leg, black to other
- Note the reading
- Swap probes
- One direction shows ~0.5-0.7V, other shows OL (overload)
- The direction that shows voltage = current flows that way
You can identify diode polarity
Required Materials
- Pinecil (or similar USB-C soldering iron)
- 22 AWG stranded hookup wire — with plastic insulation you can strip
- Lead-free solder — Sn99/Ag0.3/Cu0.7 or SAC305, rosin core, 0.8mm diameter
- Flux pen — Kester 186 or similar (essential for lead-free)
- Brass tip cleaner — preferred over wet sponge
- Helping hands / PCB holder — to hold your work steady
- Wire strippers
- Solder wick — 2-3mm width, for desoldering
- Flush cutters — for trimming wire and joints
Lead-free note: Lead-free solder requires higher temperatures and is less forgiving than leaded. You'll rely on flux more — use it liberally. Joints may look slightly duller even when done correctly.
Setup
- Plug Pinecil into USB-C power (65W+ adapter recommended)
- Press + button to turn on
- Use +/- to set temperature:
360°C (350-380°C range for lead-free)
- Wait 10-15 seconds to heat up
Safety: Never touch the metal tip • Always return to holder when not in use • Work in ventilated area • Wash hands after handling solder
Exercise 1: Tin the Tip
Purpose: Protect the tip and improve heat transfer
- Wait for iron to reach temperature
- Touch solder to the tip
- Solder should melt and coat the tip silver
- Wipe excess on brass tip cleaner (preferred) or wet sponge
Tip is shiny silver, not dull or black
Note: Brass cleaner is gentler on tips than a wet sponge. The sponge causes thermal shock.
Exercise 2: Tin a Wire
Purpose: Pre-coating wires makes joining easier
Materials: 22 AWG stranded hookup wire
- Strip ~5mm of insulation from wire end using wire strippers
- Hold wire in helping hands or pliers
- Touch iron to wire for 2 seconds (heat it up)
- Touch solder to wire (not to iron)
- Solder should flow onto wire and coat it
Wire end is coated silver, not blobby
Common mistakes:
- Solder blobs and doesn't flow → wire not hot enough, heat longer
- Insulation melts back → too much heat, work faster
- Still won't flow after heating → apply flux pen to wire, try again
Exercise 3: Join Two Wires
Purpose: The fundamental soldering skill
- Tin both wire ends (Exercise 2)
- Hold them together, touching
- Touch iron to the joint
- Let heat transfer for 1-2 seconds
- Touch solder to joint (not iron)
- Solder flows and joins them
- Remove solder, then remove iron
- Hold still for 3 seconds while it cools
Joint is shiny and smooth
Good vs Bad Joints:
🔵
GOOD
Smooth cone shape, slightly satin finish (lead-free is duller than leaded — that's normal)
⚫
BAD
Grainy, blobby, or cracked surface
Exercise 4: Solder to a Breadboard Header
Purpose: Practice soldering components
Materials: Spare header pins from your kit, scrap board if available
- Insert header pin into board
- Touch iron to both pin AND pad simultaneously
- Feed solder into joint
- Remove solder, then iron
- Should see small shiny volcano shape
Exercise 5: Desolder
Purpose: Fix mistakes, salvage components
- Apply flux pen to the joint (flux burns off, so you need to add fresh)
- Heat the joint until solder melts
- While molten, pull the wire/component out
- Or use solder wick: apply flux to wick, press wick onto joint, heat through wick with iron, wick absorbs solder
- Trim the used portion of wick with flush cutters
Note: Desoldering almost always requires added flux. The original flux burned off when you made the joint. Lead-free is especially stubborn without fresh flux.
Troubleshooting
| Problem |
Cause |
Fix |
| Solder won't melt |
Temp too low |
Increase to 350-380°C |
| Solder balls up, won't stick |
Surface oxidized or dirty |
Apply flux pen to the joint, then heat again |
| Joint is dull gray |
Cold joint, moved while cooling |
Reheat and hold still |
| Tip is black/crusty |
Oxidized |
Clean on brass, re-tin the tip. If still black, apply flux to tip |
| Rework won't flow |
Flux burned off from first attempt |
Add fresh flux before reheating |
| Smoke makes you cough |
Poor ventilation |
Turn on fan, reposition |
✅ Completion Checklist
🚀 Next Step
Test your kit components with the multimeter:
- Check all your resistors read correct values
- Verify your diodes work (one-way conductivity)
- Test your transistors aren't dead (diode mode between legs)
Then you're ready to build the pendulum circuit!